Formal Week: Accessories

A Brownie Recipe

Are we conditioned to wear what we see? Browns and greens come out in Fall but I can't help but think there's something bigger going on. Like a subliminal ad with sex hidden in the ice cubes of a glass of Scotch. My world changes but it's not just the weather and another layer. The inspiration is in a wall. Or a tree line by a river. I'm drawn to them. I reflect them. But I don't know why.

I guess I don't need to.

Broccoli Holders & Cardholders

I had a client -- now a good friend -- who used the rubber band from Broccoli stalks to hold his credit cards.  He also traveled across the US on $2.00 and is the cheapest and smartest man I know.  Chuck would die laughing at a 44€  replacement for his rubber band but I like these sexy little cardholders from the little known French company of ideas, Striiiipes.  Designed and made in Paris, what's not to like...

I've discussed Striiiipes before here and there.  I've made a big deal of the owner, Arthur.  And one day soon, I suspect, Striiiipes and Arthur will make it big and the dump trucks of cash will pull up to their doors.  Until that day - however - they cannot be expected to go beyond a certain a point.  Which means they sell out of stuff fast.

This magnificent little alligator number at 95€ is history.

There's a lot more out there for bet. 44 & 62€  but who knows for how long.


And that's what's great about Striiiipes.  That what you buy isn't coming at you from every direction.  The uniqueness of some every day tool that makes reaching into your pocket for a card that much more exciting.  Well, exciting is probably the wrong word.  "Awesome." That's the word.  Overused hyperbole to define the understated and hushed quiet of gravitas.  Thats the contrarian ticket I love. Which would fit into this cardholder but not broccoli

Get Off The Bus!

Photo for The Trad by Alice Olive

It doesn't hurt to look at menswear like a European holiday. There are those who board the tour bus and never get off. They're taken where other people think they should go, see what other people think they should see and eat what other people think they can handle. Everything is taken care of and any interaction with the locals is liaised by the guide.

Here in NYC, there are a small number of people working in menswear design. Many hang out together, share ideas, move from one company to another, haunt the same vintage stores and flea markets, read the same Japanese menswear magazines and steal from each other. They love to quote Coco Chanel, "Creativity is the art of concealing your source."

Problem today --'source' is a four minute Google search open to anyone who can spell. So everything looks like everything else -- when you're on their bus.

When you get off the bus at Grahame Fowler, you'll discover a man doing his own thing. I love the bag up there. And so will some designer but by the time he picks that bag off and gets it into Capsule-2020, Fowler will have moved on to something new, intelligent, tasteful and funny. You're not gonna know anything about it riding on the bus. It's when you get off and walk up a winding street without a clue to where it ends. I somehow always seem to find a pub to liaise in.

Check out Grahame's new blog here.

Trad Rule # 9

Trad Rule #9: You can never have too many sweaters. Have a happy and natural fiber filled Fall.

Trad Rule #88

Vogue October 15, 1936

Trad Rule #88: Never date a woman who is proficient with firearms.

Why Not? Cheerful Socks

M Magazine November 1983

This sock thing or lack of. With me it goes back to 2002 or 2003. I saw a Polo salesman in Chicago -- navy chalk stripe suit, black monk shoes and bare ankles. It was Winter. He was hairy. I imagine he had his back shaved every other week. It didn't look good then. It doesn't look good now.

I'm not saying you can't go sockless in Summer. It's what you do. Boat shoes, espadrilles (better you than me) or just a simple canvas deck shoe. You're on the beach, you're in shorts and you're relaxed. OK, I never relax on a beach but you probably do. Time, place and occasion.

Not sure the same idea works -- in a suit -- selling on Michigan Avenue -- in the Winter. If that is style then my trouser cuff square can't be far behind. How can a man's naked ankles between black calf leather and Dormeuil chalk stripe wool look good? I suppose it's because the fashion boys say so. But are you gonna listen to those humps? Next they'll tell you to wear a tie, shirt and suit all from the same material.

Nothing looks better between gray flannel and brown suede than yellow cabled cashmere. It's perfect. It's contrast. It speaks to a classic aesthetic that isn't trying too hard. It's an elegant step forward, and -- you mark my words -- like laser surgeons removing tattoos for the next ten years -- a correction is due.

It's Time...

The frantic-manic-mania of 'Prep Summer' is finally over. All that color and critter crap goes out the bare ankle door while crisp Autumnal skies speak to languid hosiery and relaxed maturity. Cotton madras becomes tartan wool. White linen turns to black & gray hues of Harris tweed. Calm is restored by burning leaves and only the grown ups are allowed matches... Which means, little ones, it's time to put on your fucking socks.

MY FW: Striiiipes

There's a spectacular restaurant in Paris within eye shot of the Eiffel Tower and while it's not much to look at, the food and wine are amazing. Only seven tables -- Only one seating a night. Vin Sur Vin or, "Twenty over Twenty," a French expression for, 'best of the best' is one of my favorite restaurants. But this isn't about a favorite  restaurant -- This is about a favorite web site, Striiiipes,  in which the owner, Arthur Lhermitte designs some of the most amazingly creative play things to wear.

My favorite, and sadly gone for now, but who knows, is this lobster shirt. Perfect for explaining my favorite expression from Spain, 'Que Langosta' for a woman's rear end (Where's the sweetest lobster meat? In the tail). It wasn't cheap but I'd rather wear it more than anything else nowadays. With a little shouting maybe Arthur will bring it back.

If you really like the lobster shirt -- There's always the lobster belt.

Not being a pocket square guy but unable to stop buying them -- Arthur's Air Mail pocket square connected me to my childhood and growing up with a military father and lots & lots of air mail envelopes. Mostly from Asia -- The paper was thin like a whisper and bordered in red, white and blue. I don't remember being excited by anything today as much as I was by seeing an air mail envelope with the old man's scratch on it.

Back in Paris, I remember having dinner at Vin Sur Vin and seeing an older couple in their 60s...he, with a huge head of grey hair over a DB navy blazer, rep tie and grey trousers -- She, silvered as well in a red knit St John the color of Georgia brick -- Neither, what you'd call in shape but happily exhibiting bread, butter and wine in their profiles...They are what I aspire to.

A pony tailed Englishman in a t shirt and his anemic blonde wife sat next to the older couple and when my hero ordered a second bottle of champagne, Pony Tail said laughingly, "You sure do drink a lot -- What are you celebrating?" I would've said, "My first blow job," but my hero did something I'll never forget. He turned and looked at Pony Tail... Held the look for at least five full seconds...and, without uttering a word, turned back to his companion. Pony Tail looked like a confused 12 year old. It was one of the most amazing things I've ever seen...

And so are these cashmere gun gloves. Jesus, when will someone hire me to write catalog copy...Probably not the most PC thing to don on the Upper East Side but, like my hero at Vin Sur Vin said, without saying a word, "Screw em." There are only five pair, and there's just one size but Mon Dieu, are they ballsy. There's not much to buy but there's a lot to love about Striiiipes. As the monster-huge retailers beat you over the head with the obvious -- It's always the small guy who whispers.

Arthur Lhermitte, You gotta love this guy.

"As for the Striiiipes website, I created and launched it in September 2020.
The idea is to showcase new products (fashion design, product design...) that trigger imagination.
We try to select a wide variety of products from different designers.

As for me, I was studying in a business school in France, and had the opportunity to work and study in other countries (Netherlands, USA, China...). A few years ago I decided to learn about fashion design, at the Studio Berçot in Paris.

Working in the fashion industry since then, I created Striiiipes.com along with other projects.
It started as a hobby but rapidly grew into a success. I am now working on new products (accessories, apparel...), and looking for new designer who would showcase some of their products on Striiiipes.com

As for the next steps, we'll try to have more retailers throughout the world (we had a special collaboration with Selfridges in London, and in other concept stores in Europe).

As for my favorite restaurant, when I was living in Shanghai I used to have dinner at some really small restaurants on the side walk of the streets. Really small, not really clean but very good traditional Chinese food. I am now in Paris, when I have some time, I like to go to Angélina tearoom rue de Rivoli, and have a Mont-Blanc for an hour or two.

I hope I answered your questions, let me know if you need anything else."
Best,

Arthur Lhermitte

Fairbank's Favorites and Sizes

Lot 115- Oil on canvas (26" x 21") of Fairbanks at 30. Painted by Tino Costa, March 18, 1940. Est. $2,500 - 3,000.

The iconographic lot of the auction. Fairbanks, looking like a young Cary Elwes, is clearly a young man here but so much of his style will remain unchanged until the end of his life at 90. The constant boutonniere, the moustache and the parting of his hair to the left. Oddly, he started out with a part on his right but changed it to the left in his late 20s.


Lot 386 - Light brown covert cloth coat. Labelled JC Cording & Co. Ltd. Part of a grouping of day clothes. Est. $300-500.

I assume you know what a Covert Coat looks like. They remain unchanged on the exterior. This one has a brown velvet collar with railroad stitching on the coat hem and sleeve bottoms. It's missing a game pocket on the inside but has the label of the classic covert coat; Cording. There is a Huntsman bespoke covert (Lot 380) which includes a tweed suit and a Huntsman sport coat. Estimate is the same as Lot 386. If at first you don't succeed at Lot 380 -- have another go at 386.


Lot 363 - Midnight blue velvet evening slippers with gold bouillon DF monogram. from Maxwell Dover Street, London. Est. $150-250.

Better looking than in the catalog or on line. Consequently, they may fall under the radar of many -- until it's too late. Paul Wilson of John Lobb in NYC and Lobb of London trained, was amazed by their construction. A stitching he hasn't seen in years holds the slipper sole to the shoe fabric. They have a beautiful chiseled toe right out of George Cleverley. I'm a 9D and they fit (with ultra thin socks) like a glove.


Lot 314 - The Bolton's Guest Book Est. $3,000 - 5,000.

Princess Margaret and Tony Armstrong Jones were newlyweds 12 July 1960. There's something addictive about the guest books. I'm not sure what it is. In many ways they seem to be about bragging or worse, high school, but there's a wit to some of the signatures and many reflect an evening of great fun, food and lots of booze.


Tom Davis of Brooks Brothers and Edward Ripley-Duggan of Doyle flip through Lot 312- Guest book from Fairbank's house, Westridge, in the Pacific Palisades. Est. $3,000 - 5,000.


I have a feeling the guest books are going to do well. Not only does Stephen Spielberg own Westridge, but the shear volume of signatures in each book is amazing: 1,800 at Westridge while DF's London residence, The Bolton's (Lots 314 & 315), count 3,000 and 2,400. Still, it's an auction and anything can happen.


Lot 49- Lead bust of eagle with spur in mouth on marble pedestal. Height 25". Est. $400-600.

The eagle and spur were used in DF's coat of arms and can be seen on his bookplate. It's an odd (and heavy) piece of sculpture to be sure. I think, along with the portrait of DF, that it's a symbol of a life well lived. Obviously a lucky one but always interesting with a few Bohemian twists and turns.


Lot 358- Group of Lock & Co. hats. Black derby and Hamburg. Brown Trilby w/gilt DF monogram (see below). Gray fedora w/gilt DF monogram. Two brown fedoras. One /gilt DF monogram. One Lock oval hat box w/Lock & Co. label addressed to Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. Est. $200-300.


Brown Trilby (part of Lot 358)

Most of DF's hats are marked 7 1/8. However, I'm a 7 1/4 and they all fit. This is a wonderful lot if you're a hat person. Although, if you're a klutz and forgetful, you should consider the iron eagle bust. I don't think you're gonna leave it anywhere like you might a hat. Plus, when you're wearing a hat out, where the heck can you put it once you're inside? Hat racks are gone and so are most coat check rooms.

Most people do not know how to gauge a hat for their head. I don't know how many tweed caps I've seen that make the wearer's head look like it was shrunken. Or, how many fedoras out there with a crown height that's better suited for Jeweler's Row. I've had to wear a number of uniform hats and, for me, a hat that came with a job was one to avoid. But DF's collection (Lots 356 - 359) are mostly Lock and mostly top shelf.

Lot 378 - Tan wool and orange check Inverness cape worn during 1969's tour of My Fair Lady. With red silk dressing gown from 1975 tour of Present Laughter. Est. $300 - 500.

Len Logsdail favored the capes - of which there are two. This one and Lot 412, a black evening cape with black velvet collar and frog closures (Est. $400-600). Like Paul, Len was impressed by the construction and the aesthetic of what has become an anachronism. As a Savile Row trained tailor, Len noted the lapel button holes on suits and jackets were all enlarged due to years of boutonniere use. A nice touch that would make for interesting conversation over cocktails. Suit sizes run 40R to 42R. Trouser waists run 34" to 35" while sleeve length is an amazing 32". Give or take. Len figures DF as long torsoed with short arms and legs.


Lot 384- Collection of casual attire. Olive plaid DAK corduroy trousers from Simpson Piccadilly and...


Brick red foulard cotton trousers from Saks Fifth Avenue. Also included in the lot are two pr of denim jeans (Geoffrey Bean and Sedgfield) and a printed cotton scarf belt. Est. $100-150.

Following on Len's observation of a long torso, Tom Davis and I measured these trousers. On both pair, the inseam was 30.5". The out seam was 41.5". I remember Paisley cotton trousers being the height of Prep back in the 80s. As light as Madras but far more understated. They're overdue for a comeback -- If understated ever comes back. The plaid corduroy trousers are featured in a photograph of a Gucci shod Mr Fairbanks on pg 113 of the auction catalog.

Lot 72- Pair of Corsican Brothers named Swash and Buckl. Gift to DF from the Hollywood Stuntman's Hall of Fame. 9" high. Est. $100-200.

I'm not sure why I was so attracted to these. Certainly the price is right. They reek of character. The provenance is crystal clear. And I think they speak to a time of a long gone Hollywood.


I'd never use them as bookends. They deserve to stand next to each other.


Lot 323- Three gentleman's watches. Two automatic. One quartz signed Wyler, Kelek & Fossil. Est. $250-300.

As a bidder, I would hope these three watches might fly under the radar. The bands probably came from Chipp because Mr Davis advised Brooks Brothers didn't sell this type of band then. The gold and navy rep speaks to the Naval career of Captain Fairbanks (ret.). There's a simplicity in the faces I like but few seem to 'get' without the "J. Crew" frame. I don't even care if they work.

In summary, here are the sizes mentioned above and a couple that were not.

Slipper US 9 Medium Width
Shoes: US 9.5 - 10 Medium Width
Trousers: 34-35" Waist / 30.5" Inseam
Shirt: Neck 15.5 / Sleeve 32-33"
Jacket: 40 - 42 R
Hat: 7 1/8 to 7 1/4

I'll put up a post tonight or tomorrow morning of Alice Olive photos ( an example seen here) and some final words about auctions and lives lived.