J McLaughlin & Shep Miller

Norman Polonofsky outside the old Shep Miller

Fall In (did I already use that?)

Norman's Blue, White, Yellow Red, Green & Pink Collar

Bamboo Toile


Dressing Rooms

Horizontal Cords

Gray flannel

Corn Husk Khaki

Canvas Jeans
Patch Crew Neck Shetland

Canvas Jean

Shirts to try on

Shawl Collar Cardigan

Lavender Horizontal Cords

Rep Tie Dopp Kits

Inspirational Colors

Knots &...

Socks

Critters

Linen Shirts


Old timers love to tell stories of the small town haberdasher. I remember Smith's Robertsons in Lake Forest. Hardwood floors haphazardly strewn with worn runners and Kilims. Labels like Gant, Talbot, Corbin, Gitman, Ruff Hewn, and British Khaki spoke to the absensce of any name ending in a - God forbid - vowel. Air hung heavy with the scent of lime, cinnamon and clove from sample cologne bottles. And I didn't seem to exist. I could've fired off a signal flare and I still couldn't get help.

Norman Polonofsky manages the J McLaughlin Men's store in Southampton, NY. It's easy to tell when someone's happy about what they do. Loaded with knowledge, he was in the apparel business as a buyer before he retired, Norman oversees a store that in many ways represents him...much like those haberdashers of the past. Shep Miller comes to mind. J Mac Women's now occupies Shep's old space.

Shep Miller was the haberdasher of New York's '70s and '80s Hamptons jet set. The aesthetic wasn't Ivy so much as it was resort. Bright colors, tweaked classics and an ease that comes with...Well, having a lotta money I guess. That's not to say J McLaughlin is aspirational. It's hugely affordable for what it is. But the tweaks are there in horizontal cords, bright colors and a mature aesthetic. Maybe this is what Vineyard Vines will be when it grows up.

Southampton streets are empty. Parking is everywhere. The drive from midtown is two hours but 45 minutes of that is getting from 8th Avenue to 2nd. Time it right and you can sail east in the HOV lane like you were tacking in a 41' Morgan. Throw a line to Norman when you get there.

Update: Robertsons in Lake Forest, IL was the haberdasher I remembered. Closed more 20 years ago, a reader and old friend reminded me it occupied the recently closed Blockbuster Video. Two floors with boy's clothing downstairs and menswear upstairs. Smith's is still open in Lake Forest and while I have a coat hanger from Smiths, I don't remember ever being in the store.

J. McCoollaughlin GTH

J. McCoollaughlin. Sounds like a single malt. Something Islay and rare. Not to everyone's liking where, consequently, it falls into a narrow but deep niche. That sums up J. McLaughlin for me. Not for everybody. A little hard to find. Loaded with character and very cool.

J Mac reminds me of the old Talbot's catalogs I grew up with in the '70s. Mostly classic women's clothing but a few pages in the back for men. And the stuff for men was huge Trad in an era of tie dyed bell bottoms, Nik Nik shirts and where cotton was as rare as short sideburns.

Men's polo shirts could be ordered with an embroidered tennis racket AND a monogram. Over the top then, but hardly makes a peep today as retailers ponder, "How much shit can we slap on this shirt?" Even J. Press is on that wagon with this nasty stuff. Whether the French held a gun to their head or they happily climbed on is being hotly debated -- Between myself and one other person.

But J Mac holds up well. Sure, they've gone off shore and that's too bad, but the quality ain't. In fact, I could of sworn this 'GTH' twill beach pant at $125 came out of the Hertling factory in Brooklyn. It's stout, almost canvas-like material, with button snap closure, zip, two front pockets and a buttoned back pocket. All you need for stumbling around on the beach.

Roll 'em up the ankles or cuff 'em. You can easily get away with a button down or linen shirt and a navy blazer but sockless is a requirement. Boat shoes, simple Venetians or Weejuns would be perfect for dinner at Sant Ambroeus in South Hampton, drinks on the terrace at the Hamilton Princess in Bermuda or iced tea and a fish sandwich at The Conch House in St Augustine -- Which is to say, they're flexible as all get out.

J Mac loaned me a size small even I was able to get into thanks to an elastic waist and a smidgen of spandex (4%). I'm not saying it was pretty but you get the idea. It's a generous cut and that's a good thing when it comes to over indulging in food and drink at Sant Ambroeus. I'm not sure they'd cotton to the idea of one unbuckling their trousers after dinner.