Camouflage In Canada

Misspelled but treasured


L to R: Lance Cpl Lodge, Sp4 Tinseth (Woodland Pattern), Major Campbell

Canadian Jump Smock

British Para Smock

Night Jump

It was a beautiful evening view of Edmonton from the open doorway of a C 130. And night did not last long. As a visiting American, I was given the honor of going first and standing in the door. I stared open mouthed at Edmonton's bright white lights while red and yellow streaks cut low lines in the dawn sky. The sun was coming up at 3AM. Days were long and nights were short.

Wings were awarded later that afternoon on Buxton Drop Zone followed by a celebration known as a 'Prop Blast.' Everyone remained in uniform. The US camouflage pattern then was called Woodland. It anticipated action in Western Europe and WWW III against the Warsaw Pact. It was also dark and dull. The Canadian Jump Smock was almost bright in comaprison. A wonderfully made jacket with gravitas and substance compared to flimsy US stop-rip cotton.

Neither held a candle to the British Para Smock of L/Cpl Lodge of the 22nd SAS. It combined '70s Rhodesia, '50s Malaysia and a smattering of contemporary Italian Para all in one pattern. I understand a US Army T.M. of world camouflage patterns is the new 'Take Ivy' among NYC designers. Who knows? Maybe Tommy Hilfiger will finally disappear.

Get Off The Bus!

Photo for The Trad by Alice Olive

It doesn't hurt to look at menswear like a European holiday. There are those who board the tour bus and never get off. They're taken where other people think they should go, see what other people think they should see and eat what other people think they can handle. Everything is taken care of and any interaction with the locals is liaised by the guide.

Here in NYC, there are a small number of people working in menswear design. Many hang out together, share ideas, move from one company to another, haunt the same vintage stores and flea markets, read the same Japanese menswear magazines and steal from each other. They love to quote Coco Chanel, "Creativity is the art of concealing your source."

Problem today --'source' is a four minute Google search open to anyone who can spell. So everything looks like everything else -- when you're on their bus.

When you get off the bus at Grahame Fowler, you'll discover a man doing his own thing. I love the bag up there. And so will some designer but by the time he picks that bag off and gets it into Capsule-2020, Fowler will have moved on to something new, intelligent, tasteful and funny. You're not gonna know anything about it riding on the bus. It's when you get off and walk up a winding street without a clue to where it ends. I somehow always seem to find a pub to liaise in.

Check out Grahame's new blog here.

Tommy Hilfiger's Army

I think these guys were in my unit


Close up of Tommy Commendation Lapel Pin


Close up up of Army Commendation Lapel Pin