Fare Figura & A History of Men's Fashion

A highly recommended addition to the serious sartorial library.


Written by Farid Chenoune & translated by Deke Dusinberre

" Italians have never understood the the major principle behind civilized stylishness, which should appear unconscious." Jean-Francois Revel

Fare Figura: To cut a figure, to keep up appearances, to swagger in a society where men are habitually addressed by their professional title, such as Dottore or Ingeniere. A History of Men's Fashion

I'm always intrigued by men and their devotion to a 'type' of dress. I assume these are brand loyal guys who stick with a cigarette, cigar, scotch, gin or breakfast cereal their entire lives while running around on their wives.

Monogamy has it's place but it ain't in clothing. I love Italian clothes and they love me. At just under 5'9, the Brioni jacket has always fit well. Borrelli linen trousers are cut large enough for my waist but are tapered through the leg and are the most flattering pant I own. And while you've heard it a million times, fit is everything, it's different for everyone. It must suit you.

Ivy, Trad, Prep, NAG (North American Gentile), whatever you want to call it - is known for it's casual fit, rumpled appearance and whiff of, "I don't give a shit." Give any man a gray sack suit, a button down and rep tie and that man can pull off a decent and classic look.

From A History of Men's Fashion (1993), " ...Italians tend to be more attired than dressed, a distinction that led to disapproval, in the name of British understatement, of this penchant for preening. Igor Margovitch could thus deplore, in 1946, the Italians' lack of naturalness in their love of "newness," leading them to "prefer changing often rather than pay dearer for finer quality... This is completely different from the English taste for garments that are so broken in that they wind up an outer skin." Igor Margovitch, Made in Italy, Lausanne, 1946

I take what fits and always try for calm. Mixing Italian clothing that fits with English or even Ivy shirts and ties takes some effort. Is it worth it? It is to me. Fall and Winter speak to American and English wools, tweeds, tattersalls, hacking pockets and Polo coats worn for protection and warmth. Summer and Spring are made for the Italians with paper thin sweaters, brightly colored ties and bright jackets light in color and weight and certainly in swagger.

Off My Back: E. Crew & Ecru

"Every man should have at least one ecru shirt in his closet." So said the men at Herzfeld. If you want a shopping experience close to what it must have been like in the glory days of the 1930s then Herzfeld may be the only place left. At least in NYC.

I haven't owned an ecru shirt since I worked at Brooks Brothers in the 80s. It was a "Makers" button down and it paired well with a wool tie of hunter green mixed with red and yellow pheasant or horse and rider. It was quiet and elegant and looked good on anyone.

This Hausammann + Moos double cuff shirt is too formal for a wool club tie but the ecru still works understatement by calming down what would be too much contrast with a white shirt. I like to think of this as Trad Italian since the jacket and tie are both from Italy. Many of you know that pocket squares bother me but since this is an Italian effort... Well, when in Rome.

I was thinking about the old J Crew catalogs from the early 90s and how each one seemed to tell a story. Lots of normal looking kids huddled around a beat up Land Cruiser with a Wire Fox Terrier in the foreground and grey haired parents in the background with a beautiful vacation pile on a pine tree encircled lake in Maine. Maybe it was Wisconsin. They kinda look the same.

J Crew isn't going away. Herzfeld might. So I had this idea of J Crew creating a new brand of top shelf apparel. Stuff made in France, Italy, England and the US with a focus on quality but at a not too dear price negotiated by J Crew's huge orders. I'd call it E. Crew, short for Ed, who was the dad in those catalogs years ago. The dad who lost the squared inseam / waist 15 years ago but knows quality and value when he sees it.

E. Crew would offer side vent jackets made from butter-like wool from Italy. Thick English silk ties with matching boxers instead of matching pocket squares. French gloves in gold calf with cashmere linings in Tiffany blue. Maine button downs with unlined collars and 12 oz khakis made in Brooklyn. Heirloom goods that speak to the elegance of the past and worn with the comfortable thought that this stuff may very well out live you. E. Crew. That's my fantasy store.